Climb Huascarán Mountain (6768 m) 6 Days
23 reviews 
Climb Huascarán Mountain (6768 m) 6 Days
23 reviews
Overview
Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6768 meters. Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious endeavor.
Highlights
Huascaran is an emblematic mountain of the Andes, the highest in Peru and the entire Cordillera Blanca, belongs to the Huascaran National Park that bears the same name, considered the highest tropical mountain in the world.
Huascaran is the highest mountain in Peru. Huascaran stands at 6,768m/ 22,205 feet tall. A giant of the Andes mountains. The ascent normally takes 21 days. The main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route to the summit. Before climbing Huascaran in Peru we advise adding an ascent above 5,000m/ 16,404 feet to give additional acclimatization. We do this on Mount Pisco, Yanapaccha, Vallunaraju and Ishinca prior to heading high on Huascaran. We include continuous training support and advice along with our dossier on the climb.
Trip Details
- Route: Normal – Throat
- Duration: 6Days / 5Nights
- Difficulty: Medium / Difficult Demanding
- Activity: Climb / Adventure
- Season: May / September
- Altitude Between: 3,100 / 6,768 m.
- Starting Point: Musho
- Day 1: Huaraz – Transfer to Musho (3000 m) – Trekking to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m)
- Day 2: Huascarán Base Camp – Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
- Day 3: High Camp I – Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
- Day 4: High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) – Ascent to Huascarán Summit (6768 m) – Trekking descent to Base Camp
- Day 5: Reserve day in case of bad weather or to sleep in High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
- Day 6: Base Camp – Trekking to Musho (3000 m) – Transfer to Huaraz
Itinerary
Day 1: Huaraz - Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m)
we will start at 7 AM driving along the Callejon de Huaylas to Musho. then we will arrive at Musho village, where we meet with our porters and donkys that they transport our luggage from Musho to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), where we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra.
Overnight Camp.
- Elevation: 4200m/13,776 ft
- Hiking time: 4 to 5 hours
- Meals: lunch & dinner
- Accommodations: camping
- Level: Moderate
Day 2: Huascarán Base Camp - Ascend to High Camp I (5450 m)
After breakfast, we will start hiking up. We will have a challenging 3-hour walk over granite rocks, leading us to the glacier of Huascaran. Our porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch.
in the afternoon we have nice sunset then dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C. Overnight Camp.
- Elevation: 5,300m/17,056 ft
- Hiking time: 5 to 6 hours
- Meals: Breckfast, lunch & dinner
- Accommodations: camping
- Level: Challenging
- Temperature: Between 13° C – 23° C during the day at night -05°C to – 10°C on the top – 15°C.
Day 3: High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
The day starts at 4 AM we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier. Overnight Camp.
- Elevation: 6000m/19,680ft
- Slope steep: 45° ,50°
- Hiking time: 5 to 6 hours
- Meals: Breckfast , lunch & dinner
- Accommodations: camping
- Level: Technical and difficult
- Temperature: Between 13° C – 23° C during the day at night -05°C to – 10°C on the top – 15°C.
Day 4: High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit (6768 m)
After breakfast at Camp 2, we will start climbing at 2AM. Along this route, we will enjoy the nice views of different mountains. We’ll also have the opportunity to see the sunrise on the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll finally get to the summit by 9 AM. Once up there, you will enjoy the snow-capped peaks and take some pictures. Time to return to Camp 2. The descent will take 4 hours approximately, and we will arrive there by 4 PM. We’ll spend the night there.
- Elevation : 6768m/ 22,199ft
- Slope steep: 55° ,60°
- Hiking time: 10 to 11hours Aprox.
- Meals: Breckfast , lunch & dinner
- Accommodations: camping – ice
- Level: Technical and difficult
- Temperature: Between 13° C – 23° C during the day at night -05°C to – 10°C on the top – 15°C.
Day 5: Camp 2 - Base Camp ( 3800 m.)
We’ll start the descent to the High Camp, going through the Moraine Camp until the Base Camp. This we’ll take us around Reserve day in case of bad weather or to sleep in High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
- Hiking time: 7 to 8 hours
- Meals: Breckfast , lunch & dinner
- Accommodations: camping – Morrena
- Level: Technical
- Temperature: Between 13° C – 23° C during the day at night -05°C to – 10°C on the top – 15°C.
Day 6: Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Back to Huaraz
Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/donky drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to Musho village , a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to brin us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team . Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel.
Notes Itinerario
Included
- Mountain Guide (UIAGM)
- Cook (1), Porters (2), Donkey Driver (2)
- Private tourist transport to the starting point for walking
- Food during the expedition (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
- Breakfast: Tea, coffee, milk, serials, bread, cheese, butter, jam, cake, fruit salad, etc.
- Snack: Fresh fruit, chocolate, biscuit, frugues and candies.
- spatter, ham.
- Tea Time: Coffee, infusions, cookies, fried huantan, popcorn, etc.
- Optional vegetarian food
- Last day (typical food of the Pachamanca Andes)
- Camping equipment (sleeping tent 2 people, dining tent, kitchen and bathroom tent)
- Logistic Kitchen Equipment (kitchen utensils, pots, plates, cutlery, chairs, tables, gas)
- Hot water in the morning to wash your hands and face every day
- Boiled water for your bottle every day
- Donkeys for the transport of luggage and food (10 Kilos per person for the donkey)
- Emergency Horse (1) in case of evacuation
- First aid kit
- Communication radio
No Included
- Través accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Personal expenses
- Acclimatization Tour
- Personal clothing for high mountains
- High mountain personal technical equipment (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.)
- Extra food and drinks in the cities
- Entrance tickets (Huascaran National Park S / 150.00 soles per person)
- Travel / Accident Insurance
- Sleeping bag
- Tips (driver, guide, cook, porter, carrier)
Recommendations:
Before undertaking any serious climb in Peru, you need an acclimatization schedule to match the elevation gain. Check out our itinerary below. Our normal schedule adds in the climb of Pisco 5,750m/ 18,864 feet. This is a classic combination between trek and climbing expedition.
What To Bring
LIST OF EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR THE CLIMB.
CLOTHING/SHOES
– One pair of mountaineering boots or high
– boots.
– Two pairs of thick socks.
– Three pairs of light trekking socks.
– Trekking socks.
– One pair of booties.
CLOTHING/UPPER BODY
– Two pairs of thermal fleece underpants.
– One fleece jacket (second layer).
– Layer).
– One waterproof mountaineering
– Waterproof mountaineering jacket.
– One down jacket.
CLOTHING / LOWER BODY
– One waterproof mountaineering
– waterproof mountaineering pants.
– One pair of trekking pants.
– One pair of thermal underpants.
– Non-cotton underwear.
CLOTHING / HEAD AND HANDS
– Windstopper or windproof gloves.
– One pair of waterproof gloves.
– Cold weather hat.
– Sun hat.
– Buff.
– Goggles with UV spectrum 4 protection.
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
– Crampons with front prongs.
– A lap belt
– An ice axe and a hammer for technical
– technical mountaineering.
– Three safety carabiners.
– A 120 cm webbing or anchor line.
– Anchor
– A descender
– A 6mm / 1.5m connecting rope.
– A backpack of at least 45 l
– A helmet.
VARIETY
– Water bottle of at least 1 liter
– Sunscreen for skin and lips
– Headlamp with spare batteries
– Spare batteries.
CAMPING EQUIPMENT PERSONAL.
– Insulated sleeping pad.
– Winter sleeping bag
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