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Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

23 reviews
Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

23 reviews

Overview

Climbing Details: Altitude Between: 3,030 / 6,768 m. Duration: 7 Days / 6 Nights Route: Normal Throat Difficulty: Medium / Hard Season: May / September Start: Musho Program:

Situated in the Cordillera Blanca, the world’s highest tropical mountain range, Mount Huascarán rises to 6,768 m above sea-level. The deep ravines watered by numerous torrents, the glacial lakes and the variety of the vegetation make it a site of spectacular beauty. It is the home of such species as the spectacled bear and the Andean condor.

Highlights

The Cordillera Blanca is a mountain range located in the department of Ancash – Peru. It is the longest and highest tropical snow-capped mountain range in the world and is part of the Western Cordillera of the Andes. It has several peaks above 5000 and 6000 meters. The highest peak is the Huascaran, with 6,768 meters and then the Alpamayo, “the most beautiful mountain in the world. ”

The Cordillera Blanca also has hundreds of lagoons such as the Llanganuco, Cullicocha and others. The mountain range is protected by the Huascaran National Park, established in 1975 to preserve the ecosystem of this mountain range, it was named by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve in 1977 and as a Natural World Heritage Site in 1985.

Itinerary

Day 1 Huaraz / Musho / Base Camp Huascaran (4,200m)

We will go into private minivan from Huaraz to Musho height 3,030 m which is the starting point, where we expect the carriers and donkeys to transport equipment and materials to base camp. (A, C) Gradient: (. Length approx 3/4 hours) + 1,170 m.

Day 2 Base Camp / Camp Morena (4,850 m)

After breakfast we start to climb over rock and walk with support from the carriers to the moraine camp . (GIVES, C) Slope:. + 650 m (duration 3 hours approx)

Day 3 Campo Morena / Camp 1 (5,400 m)

In the morning continue to the glacial and climb on glacial till field 1 (D, A, C) Slope: + 550 m (duration 3 hours approx.)

Day 4 camp 1 / camp 2 (6000 m)

very early, spend the seracs (area avalanche) an ever – delicate part on this route, then get the field two or hill, we rest very early to climb the next day to the South summit. (D, A, C) Gradient: (. Length approx 5/6 hours) + 600 m.

Day 5 Camp 2 / Summit (6,768 m) / Field 2

We get up early to take advantage of the best snow conditions, start climbing the normal route with an inclination of 50 ° to 65 ° across small walls and cracks to the South summit 6,768 m after taking the photos, we return along the same route to the field 2. (D, A, C) Desnivel : + 768 m / – 768 m (. length approx 14/16 hours climbing up and down)

Day 6 Field 2 / Base camp

descend to base camp early taking care of seracs that we over our heads in the first part of the descent. (D, A, C) Slope: – (. Length approx 7/8 hours to download) 1,800 m

Day 7 Campo Base / Mancos / Huaraz

will return to Musho with donkeys, where we expect the minivan for transfer to Huaraz. (D Mountain guides, cooks, porters and Arriero Food as mentioned in the program (D esayuno , A L UNCH , C ena )

Included

  • Camping equipment (personal shop, kitchen and bathroom)
  • logistics equipment kitchen (utensils, chairs, gas)
  • Donkeys to transport luggage and food
  • Private transportation to the whole approach point
  • Huascaran National Park entry
  • First aid kit
  • personalized assistance

No Included

  • Personal mountain equipment (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, gloves, etc.)
  • Extra meals in cities
  • Alcoholic drinks
  • additional Tours
  • Sleeping bag (0 ° C -20 ° C)
  • Travel insurance (emergency)
  • payments input and / or output within Airport
  • tips

Recommendations:

HUASCARAN SHIELD CLIMB

Definitely, climbing the Huascaran shield represents a great challenge for experienced climbers, its 1200 meters of wall with hard ice makes it a high commitment objective. To climb this wall, you have to set up a camp in high altitude camp I. From here start the ascent to the rim of the wall and start climbing the Huascaran shield.

Once you have reached the summit, you will have to return by the normal route and spend the night in Campo Alto II.

FOOD FOR THE EXPEDITION TO HUASCARAN

If you decide to make the ascent with us, all meals will be provided, including a daily snack bag (chocolate, cookies, fruit, etc.) and all meals at the campsites. Dinner meals are varied dishes, including soup. Our cooks are constantly trained to provide a varied, nutritious and delicious food to face the mountain days. We also have a vegetarian option, you can request the service during the reservation.

If you are hiking independently, you will need to plan all the ingredients for your meals and bring your own gas or benzine stove. You can rent a MSR model stove, the rent ranges from 10 to 15 soles ($5 USD) that works with benzine and the price of this liquid is 8 soles per liter ($3 USD). You can carry light food, thermostabilized or freeze-dried meals to optimize your logistics and weight. In Huaraz, some mountain stores sell these products.

TRAVEL INSURANCE

We recommend buying travel insurance if you plan to do mountaineering in Peru. Most of the mountains in Peru are very remote and rugged, so if something goes wrong, you are likely to need an emergency evacuation and that can be incredibly expensive.

If you decide to choose travel insurance, be sure to purchase a plan that covers high-altitude and helicopter rescues.

ACCLIMATIZATION FOR THE HUASCARAN SNOWY PEAK

It is important to know the basics of high altitude mountaineering. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is no joke, and if you make unwise decisions or ignore the symptoms, it could even kill you. Most people who acclimatize properly usually experience limited MAM symptoms, it is normal and there is no need to panic. It is suggested to research more about MAM and take it seriously for this type of expedition in Peru.

Although this mountain climb has a gradual ascent, you will eventually reach an elevation of 6,768 m, which is a significant drop for the average hiker. Many people coming to Peru arrive from near sea level and will need to spend a few days in Huaraz (3,100m) to acclimatize before making the ascent to Huascaran. It is recommended that you do progressive acclimatization treks for several days to prepare for the ascent to 5,000 and attempt a 6,000. One-day hikes around Huaraz or in the Callejón de Huaylas are the most recommended.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PROGRESSIVE ACCLIMATIZATION

Before ascending or climbing Huascaran, we recommend you to acclimatize beforehand. Especially if you are arriving from sea level (e.g. Lima) or low altitudes, it is an excellent idea to spend a few days acclimatizing in Huaraz (3100 masl) and doing some hiking and climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. There are a number of options that will be useful to help you acclimatize, condition your body physically and gain endurance. Here are four routes that will help you acclimatize and measure your fitness levels.

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