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Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

23 reviews
Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

Climbing Huascaran Sur 7 Days

23 reviews

Overview

Embark on a thrilling 7-day expedition to summit Huascarán Sur, the highest peak in Peru and the entire Cordillera Blanca. This challenging climb is designed for experienced mountaineers seeking a high-altitude adventure in the heart of the Andes.

Highlights

  • Huascarán Sur Summit: Conquer the summit of Huascarán Sur, the highest peak in Peru and the Cordillera Blanca, with breathtaking views of the Andean landscape.
  • Technical Climbing: Navigate challenging glacial terrain, crevasses, and steep slopes, showcasing advanced mountaineering skills.
  • Acclimatization: Gradual acclimatization with hikes and skill reviews ensures climbers are prepared for the high-altitude ascent.
  • Scenic Beauty: Immerse yourself in the pristine beauty of the Cordillera Blanca, surrounded by towering peaks, glaciers, and alpine landscapes.
  • Professional Guidance: Benefit from the expertise of experienced mountain guides who provide support, safety, and valuable insights throughout the expedition.

Trip Details

Day 1: Arrival in Huaraz and Acclimatization
Morning:Arrive in Huaraz, the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca, and rest to acclimate to the altitude.
Meet with the expedition guide for a comprehensive briefing on the climb, equipment check, and safety protocols.

Afternoon:Engage in a short acclimatization hike near Huaraz to prepare for the high-altitude ascent.
Finalize preparations, ensuring all climbing equipment is in optimal condition.
Rest and acclimate overnight in Huaraz.

Day 2: Drive to Base Camp
Morning:Depart from Huaraz in private transportation, enjoying scenic views on the way to the trailhead.
Arrive at the base camp, set against the backdrop of Huascarán Sur, and acclimatize to the new altitude.

Afternoon:Receive additional briefings from guides, discuss the route, and finalize the climbing strategy.
Rest and prepare for the challenging days ahead.

Day 3-4: Acclimatization and Skills Refresher
Morning: Engage in acclimatization hikes around the base camp, ascending to higher altitudes to enhance adaptation.
Review essential mountaineering skills, including rope techniques, crevasse rescue, and ice climbing.

Afternoon:Rest and acclimate at the base camp, ensuring participants are physically and mentally prepared for the ascent.
Conduct equipment checks and finalize gear organization.

Day 5-6: Summit Attempt on Huascarán Sur
Night:Start the ascent in the early hours, equipped with headlamps and cold-weather gear. Navigate through challenging glacial terrain, ascending steadily towards the summit.

Morning: Reach the summit of Huascarán Sur, standing at an elevation of approximately 6,768 meters (22,205 feet).
Enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.
Descend to a designated high-altitude camp for overnight rest.

Day 7: Descent to Base Camp and Return to Huaraz
Morning:Descend from the high-altitude camp back to the base camp, carefully navigating the glacial terrain.
Pack up the base camp and prepare for the return journey.
Afternoon:Drive back to Huaraz, celebrating the successful summit and reflecting on the incredible journey.
Debrief with guides, share experiences, and conclude the expedition.

Itinerary

Day 1 Huaraz / Musho / Base Camp Huascaran (4,200m)

We will go into private minivan from Huaraz to Musho height 3,030 m which is the starting point, where we expect the carriers and donkeys to transport equipment and materials to base camp. (A, C) Gradient: (. Length approx 3/4 hours) + 1,170 m.

Day 2 Base Camp / Camp Morena (4,850 m)

After breakfast we start to climb over rock and walk with support from the carriers to the moraine camp . (GIVES, C) Slope:. + 650 m (duration 3 hours approx)

Day 3 Campo Morena / Camp 1 (5,400 m)

In the morning continue to the glacial and climb on glacial till field 1 (D, A, C) Slope: + 550 m (duration 3 hours approx.)

Day 4 camp 1 / camp 2 (6000 m)

very early, spend the seracs (area avalanche) an ever – delicate part on this route, then get the field two or hill, we rest very early to climb the next day to the South summit. (D, A, C) Gradient: (. Length approx 5/6 hours) + 600 m.

Day 5 Camp 2 / Summit (6,768 m) / Field 2

We get up early to take advantage of the best snow conditions, start climbing the normal route with an inclination of 50 ° to 65 ° across small walls and cracks to the South summit 6,768 m after taking the photos, we return along the same route to the field 2. (D, A, C) Desnivel : + 768 m / – 768 m (. length approx 14/16 hours climbing up and down)

Day 6 Field 2 / Base camp

descend to base camp early taking care of seracs that we over our heads in the first part of the descent. (D, A, C) Slope: – (. Length approx 7/8 hours to download) 1,800 m

Day 7 Campo Base / Mancos / Huaraz

will return to Musho with donkeys, where we expect the minivan for transfer to Huaraz. (D Mountain guides, cooks, porters and Arriero Food as mentioned in the program (D esayuno , A L UNCH , C ena )

Included

  • Camping equipment (personal shop, kitchen and bathroom)
  • logistics equipment kitchen (utensils, chairs, gas)
  • Donkeys to transport luggage and food
  • Private transportation to the whole approach point
  • Huascaran National Park entry
  • First aid kit
  • personalized assistance

No Included

  • Personal mountain equipment (boots, ice axes, crampons, harness, gloves, etc.)
  • Extra meals in cities
  • Alcoholic drinks
  • additional Tours
  • Sleeping bag (0 ° C -20 ° C)
  • Travel insurance (emergency)
  • payments input and / or output within Airport
  • tips

Recommendations:

HUASCARAN SHIELD CLIMB
Definitely, climbing the Huascaran shield represents a great challenge for experienced climbers, its 1200 meters of wall with hard ice makes it a high commitment objective. To climb this wall, you have to set up a camp in high altitude camp I. From here start the ascent to the rim of the wall and start climbing the Huascaran shield.

Once you have reached the summit, you will have to return by the normal route and spend the night in Campo Alto II.

FOOD FOR THE EXPEDITION TO HUASCARAN
If you decide to make the ascent with us, all meals will be provided, including a daily snack bag (chocolate, cookies, fruit, etc.) and all meals at the campsites. Dinner meals are varied dishes, including soup. Our cooks are constantly trained to provide a varied, nutritious and delicious food to face the mountain days. We also have a vegetarian option, you can request the service during the reservation.

If you are hiking independently, you will need to plan all the ingredients for your meals and bring your own gas or benzine stove. You can rent a MSR model stove, the rent ranges from 10 to 15 soles ($5 USD) that works with benzine and the price of this liquid is 8 soles per liter ($3 USD). You can carry light food, thermostabilized or freeze-dried meals to optimize your logistics and weight. In Huaraz, some mountain stores sell these products.

TRAVEL INSURANCE
We recommend buying travel insurance if you plan to do mountaineering in Peru. Most of the mountains in Peru are very remote and rugged, so if something goes wrong, you are likely to need an emergency evacuation and that can be incredibly expensive.

If you decide to choose travel insurance, be sure to purchase a plan that covers high-altitude and helicopter rescues.

ACCLIMATIZATION FOR THE HUASCARAN SNOWY PEAK
It is important to know the basics of high altitude mountaineering. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is no joke, and if you make unwise decisions or ignore the symptoms, it could even kill you. Most people who acclimatize properly usually experience limited MAM symptoms, it is normal and there is no need to panic. It is suggested to research more about MAM and take it seriously for this type of expedition in Peru.

Although this mountain climb has a gradual ascent, you will eventually reach an elevation of 6,768 m, which is a significant drop for the average hiker. Many people coming to Peru arrive from near sea level and will need to spend a few days in Huaraz (3,100m) to acclimatize before making the ascent to Huascaran. It is recommended that you do progressive acclimatization treks for several days to prepare for the ascent to 5,000 and attempt a 6,000. One-day hikes around Huaraz or in the Callejón de Huaylas are the most recommended.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PROGRESSIVE ACCLIMATIZATION
Before ascending or climbing Huascaran, we recommend you to acclimatize beforehand. Especially if you are arriving from sea level (e.g. Lima) or low altitudes, it is an excellent idea to spend a few days acclimatizing in Huaraz (3100 masl) and doing some hiking and climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. There are a number of options that will be useful to help you acclimatize, condition your body physically and gain endurance. Here are four routes that will help you acclimatize and measure your fitness levels.

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