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Climb Nevado Alpamayo ( 5947m)6 Days

23 reviews
Climb Nevado Alpamayo ( 5947m)6 Days

Climb Nevado Alpamayo ( 5947m)6 Days

23 reviews

Overview

Alpamayo is one of the most technically challenging mountains to climb. Climbers must be proficient with technical mountain climbing skills. As an interested climber, you will need to be proficient with rope knot techniques and ice climbing skills. For strength building, we highly recommend climbers to focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour – 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training.

Highlights

  1. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks.
  2. Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
    Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h
  3. Alpamayo is graded 4D. The summit climb is rather more alpine-style climbing in a steep vertical section through ice and snow surfaces. The vertical climb to the summit is about 6 hours and descending back to base camp will be another 3 hours.
  4. North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
    Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).

 

Trip Details

Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 m) / Cashapampa / Ichiccocha (3,900 m)

Day 2: Ichicocha / Arhuaycoha Base Camp (4,350 m)

Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp – Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5450 m)

Day 4: -High Camp Summit (5,947 m) High Camp

Day 5: High Camp – Descent -Base Camp

Day 6: Base Camp – Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz – Cashapampa – Transfer to Huaraz.

 

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 m) / Cashapampa / Ichiccocha (3,900 m)

Departure: 07:00 am. we will head north of the City of Huaraz with our transport to Caraz visiting its typical villages of the Huaylas valley where we will arrive to Cashapampa town (2,900 m) where we will meet with our team and  porter and donkys ,then we will start to walk up to Ichicocha- (3850 m). Overnight Camp.

  • Distance: 7km/ 4.34ft
  • Elevation: 1,000 m/
  • Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours
  • Meals: breakfast, lunch & dinner
  • Accommodations: camping

Day 2: Ichicocha / Arhuaycoha Base Camp (4,350 m)

we wake up early at 5am.Aprox. with a hot mug of tea or coffee tea brought to your tent and you will fuel up with a big breakfast for the day ahead. The morning starts with a hike up to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp.

  • Distance: 6km/3.72sl
  • Elevation: 450 m/ 14,100ft
  • Hiking time: 4 /5 hours.
  • Meals: breakfast, lunch & dinner

Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5450 m)

After good  breakfast  we will prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to High Camp (5450 m). Overnight Camp.

  • Distance: 12km/7.45mls
  • Elevation: 1,100 m/ 30.33ft
  • Hiking, Climb : 5 / 6hours.
  • Meals: breakfast, lunch & dinner

Day 4: -High Camp Summit (5,947 m) High Camp

Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp.

  • Distance: 8km/4.97ls
  • Elevation: 1,100 m/ 30.33ft
  • Hiking  climb: 8 / 9  hours Aprox
  • Meals: breakfast, box lunch & dinner

Day 5: High Camp - Descent -Base Camp

We will return along the same ascent route to the base camp by breaking some cracks and crossing the moraine to the base camp.

  • Distance: 12km/7.45mls
  • Elevation: 1,100 m/ 36,0ft
  • Hiking time: 5 / 6hours.
  • Meals: breakfast, lunch & dinner

 

Day 6: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz.

Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel. Overnight Hotel.

  • Distance: 15km/9.320mls
  • Hiking time: 6/ 7hours.
  • Meals: breakfast, lunch

Included

 

  • Mountain Guide (UIAGM)
  • Cook (1), Porters (2), Donkey Drive (2)
  • Private tourist transport to the starting point for walking
  • Food during the expedition (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
  • Last day (typical food of the Pachamanca Andes)
  • Camping equipment (sleeping tent 2 people, dining tent, kitchen and bathroom tent)
  • Logistic Kitchen Equipment (kitchen utensils, pots, plates, cutlery, chairs, tables, gas)
  • Hot water in the morning to wash your hands and face every day
  • Boiled water for your bottle every day
  • Donkeys for the transport of luggage and food (10 Kilos per person for the donkey)
  • Emergency Horse (1) in case of evacuation
  • First aid kit
  • Communication radio
  • Personalized assistance

 

No Included

  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Recommendations:

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Alpamayo

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

Technical Ice Axe .

This is a technical climb so technical ice axes are best suited. Petzl Quark, Black Diamond Viper, Grivel North Machine are some of the technical ice axes we can recommend.

What To Bring

  • Sunscreen
  • Warm clothes
  • Rucksacks and daypacks
  • Sunglasses
  • Water (you will need 4 liters)
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)

Prices

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